Roi-Namur

Last weekend I finally made it off the island for more than just a dive or fishin' trip. I spent the weekend on Roi-Namur, the second largest facility - some say the more important - in the Kwajalein Atoll . . . . . Actually, two weeks ago I was up there for about five hours attending a chili cook off. That was by catamaran ferry, a three-hour, sometimes rockin'-n-rollin' trip each way. Despite that, two full boat loads went up. About 70 Americans work on Roi, as it's known, and 300 visitors came for the festivities. In addition to the cook off, there was a golf tournament, historical tours, a softball game and a number of dignitaries (?) including the range commander, IT security boss, and the atoll vice commandant getting cream pies in the face. It all benefited the local Marshallese school . . . . . Roi-Namur is about 50 miles north of Kwaj. Operation Flintlock was the invasion of Kwajalein Atoll during WWII. The Army's 7th Infantry Division invaded Kwajalein Island. The newly trained 4th Marine Division took Roi and Namur, two separate islands, in record time. It cost the lives of 190 Marines, including four Medal of Honor recipients while 3,472 Japanese died and less than 300 surrendered. There are many more Japanese structures remaining on Roi-Namur than on Kwajalein. Many have plaques that coordinate with a self-guided tour . . . . . Last Saturday afternoon I checked in for the 20-minute flight on board one of the local 18-seat puddle jumpers that shuttle between Kwaj and Roi. Since the new commander, Col. Frederick Clarke, took command, we no longer have to pay the $30 round trip fee for the space-available rides. Thanks, Colonel . . . . . Anyway, I got up to Roi and was met by Dennis Calhoun, a friend from my winter at the South Pole. Small world, neither Dennis or I knew that the other was out here until he came down to Kwaj and we happened to run into each other. Dennis was a great host, loaning me a bicycle to get around the island and giving me a tour of the place. I think he introduced me to at least half the people on the island . . . . . The ocean between the islands of Roi and Namur were filled in after the United States took over and the runway extends clear across Roi and part way onto Namur. The 'town', living quarters, dining hall, store, pool, theatre, gym, nine-hole golf course and most importantly, The Outrigger Club, are also on Roi. Visitor housing is pretty nice, large room with bath and wet bar for the grand sum of $15 a night . . . The business of the island is on the Namur island section. Besides the air terminal, clinic, police and fire departments, island operations, power plant, warehouses and marina, the optic and radar facilities are over there. That's the reason for the installation. These things not only track incoming and outgoing missiles, but also objects already in space. The world's largest and most powerful radar is there. The thing is HUGE. It can be moved very quickly and, while not silently, amazingly quietly. It moves on four carriages on a railroad-type rail. I think Dennis said it's done with two 500 horsepower electric motors . . . . . Roi-Namur is more of what I expected when I originally came to Kwaj. It's less militarized. There is still some jungle but where there isn't, it is much more open. Beaches on the lagoon side and volcanic reef on the ocean side are more pristine. It's much cleaner in general. In short, it is more natural and far less developed. While it's considerably smaller than Kwaj, it's still even less crowded. And much quieter . . . . .well, except in the evening at 'the club', The Outrigger . . . . . I said I took the plane on Saturday afternoon, but my dive gear didn't make it until two flights later, arriving about noon on Sunday. Something about cargo already being full, more beer being sent up or something . . . Luckily, Dennis had lined up a dive buddy for me. Dennis is still working on his dive certification . . . not bad for a guy that just learned to swim last spring . . . at about 60 years of age . . . So I did get out for a couple dives. Both were fish dives, one ocean side and one in the lagoon, both great. There is a notable plane graveyard or two as well as numerous other wrecks from WWII in the area. I plan on making more trips, so there will be time for those . . . . . All good things come to an end as did my trip up north. I flew back Monday afternoon . . . . . Here on Kwaj, preparations are being made for the holidays. Decorations are going up, orders are being taken for Christmas trees (?) and wreaths. Tomorrow, Friday, November 28 we're off work to coordinate with the States for the Thanksgiving holiday. The dining hall has been advertising a big feast for some weeks. We'll see . . . Thanksgiving at the South Pole is mighty, MIGHTY tough competition in that respect . . . . . I'll get some photos of the Christmas festivities, tree lighting ceremony, etc. next week and (hopefully) get another posting out in a few weeks. Until then - bar lo yuk . . . . . (for those I haven't already told, very loosely translated from Marshallese, that's "see you later!")